Solution: Prise off the lighting housing and unscrew the bits underneath (be careful though - this italian plastic is a bit flimsy!) Then you need one of those funny hexagonal star screwdriver bits and unscrew the base of the aeriel.{courtesy of Keith}

Solution: Unfasten the centre roof console and unplug the switches. Carefully prize out the ultra sonic sensors (its a bit fiddly but can be done). Then remove the beading from around the front of the sunroof that secures the roof lining, gently pull down the roof trim to avoid tearing it. Unfasten the metal bracket that holds the centre roof console and then carefully slide it back to the sunroof opening until you see the triangular fitting below the aerial. Unfasten the triangular fitting which then gives access to the screw holding the aerial. Remove the screw and thats it. The triangular fitting is a booster circuit.{courtesy of Dizzypole}

Solution: It is recommended that the aircon gas is recharged after four years from new, then every following three years. To ensure the compressor is keep lubricated during the winter, run the air for a few minutes at least once a month.

Solution: Split brackets first- Loosen the screws that hold the anti roll bush brackets a little, easier said than done. Then use a bolster to split them apart. If necessary, loosen the screws a bit more, repeat until they split open. Dismantling - Jack up reasonably high. Take the screws out. Pull the bar out one side until you can move the other end backwards between the 'chassis' and the floor, then extract it that way. Splitting the brackets that hold the bushes - Hold the bracket in a vice and put a bolster chisel between the 2 metal parts of the bracket. Hit bolster with hammer, 2 parts ping apart. Clean up the remains of the swaged part using a file so that the 2 parts fit together nicely. Bushes - My motor factor has them listed in the parts book, but has had trouble getting them. part number will be posted here when available.{courtesy of John Jaap}

Solution: If the cable boot release does not work correctly, the cable may need adjusting remove the grey trim on the boot lip and adjust the cable gland as required. Click on picture for a larger image.

Solution: The pads used on the Multipla are very abrasive and wear down quickly. The disks will need to be checked also, minimum (worn) thickness is 20.20mm (for the JTD) The new disc is 21.9 - 22.1mm thick, Disc diameter is 284mm

Solution: Remove the spring (not a DIY job) and push a length of rubber hose 3/4 the way round the spring {courtesy of Aluis}

Solution: To bleed the clutch hydraulic pipe (click on picture), slacken bleed nipple with a 8mm spanner. Use a one-person bleed kit or ask someone to press the clutch in until fluid starts to come out. Re-tighten the bleed nipple in with the clutch still depressed. Release clutch.

Solution: To bleed the clutch slave cylinder (click on picture), pull the wire clip up enough to allow the pipe to come out about 4mm. Use a one-person bleed kit or ask someone to press the clutch in until fluid starts to come out. Push the pipe and clip back in with the clutch still depressed. Release clutch.

Solution: Open the bonnet and remove the black rubber boot at the back of the light. Pull the cable connector off and unclip the bulb. Replace with a H7 bulb (Do not touch bulb glass with your fingers).

Solution: Squirt some WD40 (general purpose light oil) in the small hole located under each door handle near to one of the handle hinges

Solution: The tension wheel pully wheel must be flush with all the other wheels, otherwise a new belt will soon be damaged. Changing the pulley wheel is a fiddly job and is best left to the garage engineer.

Solution: Remove fascia by prizing off the gear lever surround, pull off fan knob then the fascia front (all held in by clips). Replace faulty lamp bulb and check all electrical connections are sound.

Solution: Prize the grey plastic grill 'thing' out of the cluster with a flat screwdriver and remove the two fixing screws. Remove the two plastic blanks at the front of the cluster and remove the two fixing screws. Unplug the switch connector block if required. Reassemble in reverse.

Solution: Jack both sides on axles stands and remove both front wheels. Remove vertical links with 15mm socket holding knuckle with 17mm open spanner across flats. Re-fit in reverse order (30 mins, £16 each link)

Solution: Asking the fitter to set the toeing angle to 0 (zero) degrees

Solution: Make and fit a deflector plate to prevent future damage. Use a rigid plastic 1-2mm thick, approx. 180mmx280mm and secure using the cable guide fixing bolt & cable ties. Click on image for a larger picture.

Solution: Thaw the cable with a hair drier. Check for splits in cable or rubber boots under vehicle. Replace cable if damaged. Pack grease into rubber boot to prevent water ingress

Solution: Change potentiometer located at top of accelerator pedal. To check if this is the fault - follow the cable from the potentiometer - it wanders under the dash to the passenger foot well. There you will find a multiplug connector - disconnect - and the engine should return to its normal tickover (800/1000 rpm){courtesy of rueblondell}

Solution: One of the left hand front brake pads has a wire attached to it. If this wire is damaged it could short to the metal work. Repair break or insulate wire but check pads regularly

Solution: First try the solution for the rear sunroof. If this does not work, check the aeriel base is secure. To access fixings, remove front light cluster (see method above)

Solution: The rubber seal must be clear of all debris. Even the smallest leaf/twig will cause water to get in. Wipe the rubber and glass edge clean with silicon grease or oil

Solution: Prize the black cover located above the light out with a flat screwdriver. Remove the lamp assembly retention screw (torx bit or 4mm alen key). Remove Main beam assembly.

Solution: A very, very small blob of silicon (bathroom sealer) applied to the inner end of the barrel before re-fixing has worked for me. Not too much or you'll block the holes. Ensure the nozzles squirt in the right direction before the silicon goes off.{courtesy of Colin Cocking}

Solution: Prize off cover by left front wiper. Unscrew and remove filter cover. Remove and replace filter, note airflow direction.

Solution: If you are having to change all four standard 185/65 tyres at the same time, you can fit 205/60 tyres on the same wheels. This improve the ride, cornering and look of the car.

Solution: Gradual loss of power under load (going up hill, high speed) may be attributed to the air flow/mass sensor. Under the bonnet, on the RHS is the air filter, the sensor is fitted to the pipe leading from this. Remove the connector (you will have to press hard on the clip and on some models the clip is on the underside), drive it and see if problem goes away. Fiat part number 46559828 Bosch number 0281002308

Solution: If your Multipla has >60k miles(100km) on the clock the water pump baring may be showing signs of wear i.e. steaming after a run, leaking water onto the fan belt and the floor. Because the belt has a tensioner the leak may not be apparent until its too late. Regularly check your coolant level.

Solution: A poor fitting Air Filter cover can cause a rattling noise at speed. Use a screw or tape cover down to secure.

Solution: If you remove the trim round the edge of the rear sunroof, whilst doing it note how the roof lining is held against the metal frame for when you put it back. Pull down slightly on the roof lining and you'll see the frame. I found packing a strip of sound proof matting (50mm x 300mm approx, available from motor factors etc) between the lining and the frame on both left & right sides did the trick.

Solution: Prize the light assembly out with a flat screwdriver

Solution: Many of the problem with the rear courtesy lights are associated with the switch in the light assembly This simple switch should allow you to turn on the rear lights when the rear doors are shut. If you are a dab hand with the soldering iron, dismantal the switch and check its operation with a test lamp or multimeter. Alternatively order a new assembly from your local Fiat dealer

Solution: Remove the boot inner lining 4 screws and pull the lining away from the door (four plastic clips). Slacken the motor assembly bolts (allen key required) and push the pipe back onto the jet. Retighten the motor screws and replace the lining (don't forget the handle) {courtesy of Moriarty}

Solution: Remove fascia by prizing off the gear lever surround, pull off fan knob then the fascia front (all held in by clips). Check all electrical connections are sound.

Solution: A new rear wiper blade can only be purchased from Fiat, hence it is expensive. To save money, remove the old blade by unhooking it from the wiper and sliding it out. Retain the metal strips. Fit either a new length of rubber or a good piece from an old front wiper blade.

Solution: The release mechanism is similar on all seats. Remove leaver handle (one screw) and plastic surround. Remove plastic side hinge cover to reveal cable (see pic). Remove lower seat cover (peel off from bottom) and lift seat pad. Release cable from both ends and remove cable. Replace cable and refit seat pad and covers.

Solution: Press Mode/Minus (service)/Mode (front tyre pressure)/Minus (service after)/ Press and hold + and - keys: hold for 15 secs. Display reads After 12500 miles

Solution: Remove the air filter (see pic) turn fan on to max and spray some household anti-bacterial solution into the air filter vent. This may need a few applications to kill the Bacteria and get rid of the smell.

Solution: Periodically drop the spare wheel and grease the cable to ensure easy release when required (usually when its raining !)

Solution: Turn on the ignition and press and hold one side of the switch for 30secs. Then press the other side of the switch, again for 30secs. What this does is to reset the sensors that tell the ECU where the glass panel is - whether it's open, closed or somewhere in between. I did this and Hey Presto! A working sunroof! {courtesy of Geoff Hemingway}

Solution: Remove the inner barrel from the 'T' head, and at the open end drill a very small diameter hole (approx 1mm). Push the barrel back into the 'T' and secure using a tiny self-tapping screw, like many you will find holding kids plastic toys together. This screw will clamp the inner barrel in place, but if you need to adjust the spray angle, simply loosen the screw and rotate the barrel as usual with a screwdriver and then re-tighten the clamp screw.{courtesy of Ian Mc}

Solution: The tyre pressures for 185/195 R15 with 1 Person to 4 people plus 40kg load (in boot) is 2.3 Front 2.3 Rear. Up to a maximnm of 6 persons plus a 60kg load(in boot)is 2.5 Front 2.5 Rear. For 1 person (driver) plus a 500kg arranged in the boot obtained by removing the rear seats (without exceeding 960kg net on the rear axle) is 2.5 Front 3.0 Rear. The spare wheel is 4.2 (All Pressures are in BAR) {courtesy of David (familybugsix) }

Solution: Fit 50mm of garden hose onto lower vent of headlamp. This prevents water splashing through wheel arch grill entering headlamp. Any water in headlamp should evaporate.

Solution: Prise off the triangular plastic cover from inside the car behind the mirror. It comes of very easy really, then there are three 5mm allen screws behind and the electrical connector block. Unplug the block, take out the screws and catch the mirror quick. You will have to feed the cable through a rubber grommet and voila....its off {courtesy of Moriarty}